The only thing primitive about Wildfish Seafood Grille is the swimmingly fresh seafood -- mostly caught the day before and shipped next day on ice. Otherwise, this cosmopolitan bistro is as sophisticated as any fine eatery in New York or Vegas. Burnished wood, dim theatrical lighting, cozy tables, a stylish exhibition kitchen and central bar with several TVs available to catch the game embellish the interior. Veteran restaurateurs Guy Villavaso and Larry Foles (Z'Tejas, Eddie V's Edgewater Grille) have created a fierce seafood-steakhouse combination, which attracts food-loving couples, ladies on a luxurious night out and sexy singles at the bar. Because Wildfish is not as wallet-busting as similar concepts in the area, go ahead and start with a spicy lump crab cake surrounded in a buttery remoulade sauce. If you're in the mood for steak, pick a finely aged filet, rib eye or veal chop.